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|"The Flying Saucer Idea Takes a New Turn"
by Paul Del Gatto
This article descibing the model (M.A. 191) and its construction appeared in Model Aircraft magazine, August 1954 p. 316.
Ever since flying saucers became front-page material for newspapers, our interest in them his steadily increased.
Within the list few years we've built and flown no less than half a dozen saucer configurations, both F/F and C/L.
For the most part these designs were very successful, but even when successful we never got the feeling that we had really achieved something unique in model aircraft. The reason we felt this way was because we had not simulated what might be envisioned as a true flying saucer. Our designs were all propeller driven by either an engine or rubber motor with but one exception, which was powered by a Jetex 50 unit externally mounted.
The latter design most closely approached our recent endeavor with but one very important exception. While our past designs derived their lift through forward routine, our summit eminence or recent endeavor derives its lift through rotary motion.
When the Jetex fuses are ignited the model begins to rotate and in a matter of seconds begins its ascent. The upward journey continues for approximately eight seconds, continually accelerating until the power is expended and the model is about 150 to 200 ft. in the air. Approximately five to six seconds are expended in accelerating for takeoff.
Coming down, the model spins in the reverse direction until it finally settles down to earth.
While construction of the model differs from that of conventional models, it is nonetheless very easy. The most important things to bear in mind are correct alignment of all parts, and a light but strong framework.
To begin construction, start by cutting out all the required parts, taking care that the correct texture of wood is used throughout.
The inner and outer rims are then pinned in place on the plan. If you experience difficulty in bending it in the circular shape, it is advisable to soak the wood in warm water and pre-bend to the appropriate shape.
Next, construct the four-bladed propeller and cement the 1/32 in. sheet disc to the propeller hub; the remainder of the disc hub is located after it is removed from the plan.
Locating and cementing the vanes in position require the maximum amount of effort and care. Begin at any position and cement them in place in a clockwise direction with the correct helical twist.
Now that the frame has been removed from the plan, complete the 1/32-in. sheet balsa hub assembly and cover the propeller hubs with tissue as indicated. To the inside edge of the cone rim where the Jetex units are to be mounted, cement a 1/16 in. plywood base through which the mounting bolts can eventually be inserted.
The outer periphery that encloses the Jetex units is constructed entirely of 1/32-in. sheet balsa. To begin, first bolt the Jetex mount in position and center the retaining wall in position, checking carefully with the Jetex unit itself to see that it is in the correct position. Then cement the upper and lower surfaces in position to the outer rim and the retaining wall. When completed, cement the 1/32 in. sheet balsa edge in place.
An essential precaution is to line the Jetex housing, and four to five inches of the outer periphery, with asbestos, as indicated on the plan. This will eliminate scorching or burning of the model.
In order to keep the model light, do not use any colored dopes in applying a finish. However, if you would like a little color in your model, it is suggested that you mix dye with a small amount of water and alcohol to your clear dope.
In this manner a good-looking finish can be applied without worrying about excessive weight. Apply three or four coats of thinned down dope, gently sanding with fine sandpaper between each coat.
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